Belfast and the Peace Wall

Aside from seeing the Titanic, we wanted to go to Belfast to contrast it to Dublin and learn more about the "Troubles" and the divison of Ireland.  Of course, the equivalent of about two days in Dublin and an afternoon in Belfast doesn't even skim the surface of this very complicated history, but it's what we had.

Our guide at the Kilmainheim Gaol in Dublin had told us that the line to divide Northern Ireland from the Republic of Ireland was drawn to include as many "Loyalists" (to the UK) as possible in the North.  "Gerrymandering," I said.  "Yes, exactly!"

And that was obvious when we took our tour of Belfast.  In part of the city, British flags are everywhere.  The streets were lined with the Union Jack.  The "Loyalists" are largely Protestant and the "Nationalists" are largely Catholic. 

We were shown part of the "Peace Line" along the Falls Road that separates, still, parts of eastern and western Belfast--separating the Protestant and Catholic sections.  There are "Peace Gates" which are closed at sundown.  The Peace Lines were started in the sixties, meant to be temporary, but have been lengthened and made stronger since then, including after the Belfast Agreement in 1998.  A survey last year indicated that 69% of residents think the walls are still necessary to curb violence.

The murals of Belfast, many painted on the walls, are famous and quite a tourist attraction.  There are murals depicting both sides of the schism.  The first picture, at the top of this entry, is Fred looking at a mural celebrating black freedom fighters and heroes from around the world--Nelson Mandela, Martin Luther King, Sojourner Truth, Barack Obama.  Obviously, we're passing Frederick Douglas...who apparently visited Ireland in the 1840s.

The one below is to poet and IRA member Bobby Sands, who joined the IRA at age 16 and died in prison leading the the 1981 hunger strike.  The following mural has one of his poems on it.  Reportedly, Nelson Mandela was inspired to do his hunger strike by Bobby Sands.  This is apparently a popular photo op for nationalist politicians.

The mural below is notable for the two murals it contains (Ignore the Jeep ad...).  One is to Ulster Defense Association (Loyalist) member Robert Dougan, who was shot in his car by the IRA in 1998 after the cease fire in 1994.  The other is to Northern Ireland footballer George Best, who died in 2005 of complications of a liver transplant.  Best said of his career "I spent a lot of money on booze, birds and fast cars--the rest I just squandered."

We read that some want to take down the political murals as they are seen as divisive, and want them replaced with murals celebrating celebrities, such as the one about George Best.  I hope that doesn't have to happen, but I can also understand the point.

Some more murals...

 

You can take a virtual tour of the murals at http://www.virtualbelfastmuraltour.com/.

Having just been to the Celebration of the 1963 March of Washington, we couldn't help comparing the battle led by Martin Luther King, using non-violent acts of civil disobedience, with the violence across Ireland, north and south.  It's sad that the divisiveness continues today....

The bus dropped us off back in town and we started walking toward (we hoped) the train station.  Those who know Fred will not be surprised to learn that we decided to stop for a snack. :D

We found this quaint shopping area, complete with Apple Store:

Compare it to this building we passed on the bus:

After our snack, we asked a pleasant-looking man walking past for directions to the station.  He promptly reversed direction and guided us to where we could see the station, probably a half mile out of his way!  We had a great talk; it turned out he was in charge of the giraffes at the Belfast Zoo. 

We made the last train out of Belfast for Dublin that night.  That should also not surprise anyone....

Afterword:  we spent the next several days in The Republic of Ireland, but saved our Pounds Sterling to use when we returned to England.  Much to our surprise, they are not accepted in England!  We thought pounds sterling would be pounds sterling?

Next: exploring southern Ireland

A Nation Once Again.

When boyhood's fire was in my blood 

I read of ancient freemen, 
For Greece and Rome who bravely stood, 
Three hundred men and three men; 
And then I prayed I yet might see 
Our fetters rent in twain, 
And Ireland, long a province, be. 
A Nation once again! 

A Nation once again, 
A Nation once again, 
And lreland, long a province, be 
A Nation once again! 

And from that time, through wildest woe, 
That hope has shone a far light, 
Nor could love's brightest summer glow 
Outshine that solemn starlight; 
It seemed to watch above my head 
In forum, field and fane, 
Its angel voice sang round my bed, 
A Nation once again! 

It whisper'd too, that freedom's ark 
And service high and holy, 
Would be profaned by feelings dark 
And passions vain or lowly; 
For, Freedom comes from God's right hand, 
And needs a Godly train; 
And righteous men must make our land 
A Nation once again! 

So, as I grew from boy to man, 
I bent me to that bidding 
My spirit of each selfish plan 
And cruel passion ridding; 
For, thus I hoped some day to aid, 
Oh, can such hope be vain ? 
When my dear country shall be made 
A Nation once again!

--Traditional Irish song of rebellion, written in the 1840s.   It was played on the bus we took in Dublin.  Which, of course, is part of "a nation once again"--the Republic of Ireland.  The nationalists in Northern Ireland are still waiting.